After Thailand, we decided our next destination would be Laos. There are many different options to get to Laos from Thailand, (train, plane, bus, boat, etc.) but we chose to take the 2-day slow boat. This is a whole adventure in itself, and we are glad that we chose to travel this way.

How to get there?

There are a few cities that have border crossings from Thailand to Laos. We chose Chiang Khong, which is about a 5 hour bus journey from Chiang Mai. We booked our bus via 12GoAsia.com. Chiang Khong is a super-small border city, with not too much going on, but perfect for a 1 or 2 night stop over on your way to Laos. From your hotel in Chiang Khong, you can organize a bus to the Laos border, followed by the slow boat.

Travelers Tips:

You will need US$75 to pay for your visa in Laos. They are super strict about the dollar bills that they accept (they cannot have wrinkles, writing, tears, or be too old). The best thing we can say is take out Thai baht from the ATM, and exchange it at the Thai border to US dollars. You will get the best exchange rate, and you will get US dollars that they will accept when you arrive in Laos. Many travelers we were with exchanged money at their hotels/hostels, and they ended up losing money because of the bad rate and older bills that the hotel gave them.

The Slow boat Journey:

The slow boat left Huay Xi around 11AM. We made sandwiches and bought water (and a few beers) although they do sell water, beer, and food on the boat for purchase. Day 1 was 6 hours of traveling on the boat, which literally was super slow but the views along the Mekong River were beautiful. Locals hopped on and off, as it made frequent stops along the way at little villages. We kept ourselves entertained playing cards, reading books, and listening to music, but the ride does feel long. There is a squat toilet on the boat, but we tried our best to use it as little as possible.

After 6 hours we arrived in Pak Beng. We were advised not to book accommodation beforehand, and we were glad we did this. When your boat docks, tons of local people will approach you with signs and shout at you to stay at their place. I’m trying to figure out the nicest way to word this.. truthfully, Pak Beng is a dive and all accommodation there is overpriced. Pick the cheapest place with a bed and shower, and take the town for what it is. We went to the Happy Bar, had pretty decent Indian food there, had some local beer and played pool for the night.

The next morning, we were up at 7AM to make sure we got a good seat on the boat. The second day journey was 8 hours, and we may or may not have had a few too many beers the night before. FYI, you do not want to be hungover on the slow boat. ESPECIALLY when the boat trip is 8 hours. Pak Beng doesn’t offer much other than local beer and free banana whiskey shots, just think twice before indulging or deal with the boat trip from hell the next day. After 8 long hours, we arrived (outside) Luang Prabang. For whatever reason, the boat stops outside the city, and you have to get a tuk-tuk the remainder of the way into Luang Prabang city. There’s an office where you buy a ticket (about US$3 each), and the trip takes about 20 minutes.

Final Thoughts:

Overall, the slow boat was definitely a unique experience that we recommend. We wouldn’t necessarily do it again, but it was quite an adventure and a different way of traveling compared to the usual buses or trains that are so popular in Southeast Asia.